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Numerous safe, useful, nonchemical approaches of plant defense and insect management may minimize or remove the requirement to spray. Other techniques are most beneficial when utilized with pesticides. To carry out management practices properly and to decrease losses, gardeners must know the kinds of pests that attack plants and comprehend pest biology.


Pest management approaches fall under four groups: cultural, mechanical, biological, and chemical. Keeping plants healthy and preventing plant tension helps plants to much better stand up to and repair the damage brought on by a bug or mite insect. Some proof shows that healthy plants withstand infestation by pests much better than plants with low vitality.


Many severe illness or insect problems can be stopped or slowed by routinely checking out the garden, understanding what to try to find, recognizing possible problems, and stepping in early. Cultural approaches of reducing bug and mite problems in the landscape include preparing the soil; choosing plants that are adjusted to the website conditions, that are not appealing to bugs, which are tolerant of bugs and diseases; turning crops; interplanting; timing planting dates to avoid bugs; managing weeds; and planting "trap" crops.

 

 

 

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If tilling is deemed required, consider doing it in the fall when the life cycles of many pests brings them near the surface area. At the surface, pests end up being exposed to the weather in addition to birds and other natural enemies. Fall tilling can also destroy bugs in crop residues. Use disease-free and insect-free licensed seeds and plants if available.




Analyze plants thoroughly (tops of leaves, bottoms of leaves, stems, and soil) before planting to be sure they are clean. Think about planting recognized as resistant to bugs. Resistant cultivars are those that push back, are unsightly to, or otherwise are unsuitable as food for specific pests or that endure feeding by certain insects with little decrease in yield or quality.


If deer are a problem in a garden, pick a plant that is naturally resistant to deer predation over a plant that is more attractive to deer. Planting two comparable crops in succeeding years tends to increase bug issues.

 

 

 

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Some insects hibernate in the soil or litter around plants or lay eggs in or on the host plant. Do not grow the same kind of vegetable in the exact same location each year (Figure 84). Use related crops in a site only when every 3 or 4 years. The rotation duration for preventing some tomato illness may be 5 to seven years.

 

 

 

Crop rotation is most effective on bugs that develop on a few plants. Pests that end up being serious on cabbage most likely also infest close-by mustard, broccoli, and collards, but they may not spread to cabbage planted on the other side of the garden.

 

 

 

Marigolds and garlic are 2 plants advised as insect repellants; however, many of these suggestions are unproven. In some cases, the evidence shows these plants are not reliable official source repellants.

 

 

 

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The flowers of thistle, plantain, knotweed, and dandelion are crucial to honey bee populations. Removing weeds after flowering however prior to seed set provides food for the honey bees but keeps the weeds from continuing to spread out. Another way to manage insect pests is to plant a crop that is extremely attractive to pests and then treat the trap crop with insecticide.

 

 

 

Crop rotation is an important cultural technique for minimizing pest and disease problems, but lots of garden enthusiasts do not have the room to sufficiently implement this practice. Where space is limited, it may be best to enable the garden to lay fallow for a year or 2 or more. Consider raised beds with new soil or plant in containers when you know a disease issue exists.


Practically any big non-venomous insect can be chosen off at any phase. To prevent the job of hand-squashing the bugs, knock the insects and egg clusters into a coffee can or quart container with a little quantity of water and a bit of dish cleaning agent. Insect traps can assist with detection and management.

 

 

 

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These traps do not catch some wingless types, as well as those see types active just during the day (diurnal) as opposed to active throughout the night (nocturnal). Pheromone traps are used for discovering the presence of pests or often for disrupting insect breeding habits. Adult women produce and launch a chemical smell appealing to males of the same species.


Rainfall, cool temperature levels, wind speed, and wind instructions can decrease the lures' efficiency. Heat, sunlight, or improper storage can damage fragrant lures. The best success occurs when the insect density is low and motion into the location is very little. Some physical traps are simple to make from products around the home.


Reapply every one to 3 weeks. This barrier is preventive; it will not work if an insect bug is currently developed.

 

 

 

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Some bugs, such as the azalea my review here stem borer and the dogwood club gall (Figure 813), can be handled by pruning contaminated branches out of infested plants and damaging them. If twigs plagued with dogwood twig borers are pruned in late spring or early summertime, the plants need to still flower without any issue the following spring - bed bug treatment in Medford.